My Skincare Philosophy: Prioritizing Long-Term Skin Health Over Quick Fixes
- Shawnlin | The Skin Alchemist
- Feb 28
- 6 min read
Updated: Mar 1
In the skincare world, there’s no shortage of products promising overnight transformations. Many people chase after fast results, hoping to erase hyperpigmentation, fine lines, or acne with aggressive treatments and homecare products. But as a skincare professional, I take a different approach—one rooted in long-term, maintainable results rather than quick fixes that offer only temporary improvements.
Instead of fighting the skin’s natural processes, I believe in working with them. This is where biorhythms come into play. Just like our bodies follow natural cycles for sleep, digestion, and energy levels, our skin also has its own biological rhythms that influence how it functions, heals, and regenerates. My approach respects these natural processes to ensure healthier, more resilient skin over time.
Why I Aim to Avoid Short-Term Solutions Like Hydroquinone, Tretinoin, Accutane, Clindamycin, and Benzoyl Peroxide
Many skincare products and treatments focus on quick fixes that work initially but often lead to dependency, irritation, or worsening skin conditions once discontinued. What I've found is that most of the time, once a client discontinues using the products for too long, their results plateau, and their skin concerns come right back. Some of the most common examples of quick-fix ingredients are hydroquinone, tretinoin, and benzoyl peroxide.
Hydroquinone: The Risk of Rebound Pigmentation
Hydroquinone is widely used to lighten hyperpigmentation, but it comes with risks that make it unsustainable for long-term skin health.
Rebound pigmentation – When hydroquinone is stopped, dark spots often return even worse than before.
Skin sensitivity – Overuse can lead to irritation, redness, and increased susceptibility to UV damage.
Permanent damage – Long-term use can cause ochronosis/exogenous ochronosis, a condition that results in permanent skin darkening.
Rather than relying on hydroquinone, I use gentler, long-term alternatives such as tranexamic acid, arbutin, licorice root, plant stem cells, MASQ-tech, THD/BV-OSC, Ferulic Acid, and vitamin C to gradually brighten the skin without the risk of dependency or damage.Tretinoin: Harsh on the Skin Barrier
Tretinoin is a prescription-strength retinoid often used for acne and anti-aging, but I avoid it due to its harsh effects on the skin barrier:
Excessive irritation and peeling – Tretinoin rapidly increases cell turnover, which can cause extreme dryness, redness, and flaking.
Increased sensitivity – Many users experience prolonged irritation and find it difficult to tolerate daily use.
Short-term results, long-term inflammation – While tretinoin may initially reduce fine lines and acne, chronic irritation can weaken the skin over time, making it more reactive and prone to inflammation.
Instead of tretinoin, I prefer retinol and retinaldehyde, a gentler retinoid that delivers similar results with less irritation. I also incorporate peptides, growth factors, and PDRN to support collagen production without disrupting the skin barrier.Benzoyl Peroxide: Oxidative Damage and Microbiome Disruption
Benzoyl peroxide (BPO) is a common acne treatment, but I avoid it for several reasons:
It generates free radicals, which can accelerate aging and collagen breakdown.
It dries out the skin, leading to compromised barrier function and increased oil production, which can actually make acne worse.
It disrupts the skin microbiome, killing both good and bad bacteria, which can lead to long-term imbalances and increased sensitivity.
Instead, I treat acne by supporting the skin’s natural defenses with: Mandelic and Salicylic Acid for gentle exfoliation, Sulfur and Zinc for reducing inflammation, and Exosomes and PDRN to speed up healing and prevent acne scarring.When I DO Recommend Benzoyl Peroxide
While I prefer to avoid benzoyl peroxide, I do still recommend Benzoyl Peroxide SERUM for extreme cases of acne and only as a last resort.
My goal is to eventually stop using benzoyl peroxide altogether by transitioning my clients to alternative treatments that support the skin’s natural healing process.
In the meantime, when I do recommend benzoyl peroxide, it is in a controlled and limited way to avoid unnecessary damage to the skin barrier.
Accutane (Isotretinoin): An Extreme Last Resort
Accutane is an oral medication that permanently shrinks oil glands and is often used for severe cystic acne. While it can be effective, it comes with serious long-term risks that I believe are often overlooked:
Severely dries out the skin, leading to chronic dehydration, sensitivity, and long-term barrier damage.
It can cause permanent oil gland shrinkage, which disrupts the skin’s natural ability to protect itself.
Linked to gut health and mental health concerns, including depression and severe gastrointestinal issues.
Acne often returns post-Accutane, especially if underlying hormonal imbalances, inflammation, or skincare habits are not addressed.
Rather than relying on extreme medications like Accutane, I take a holistic approach, naturally balancing oil production, strengthening the skin barrier, and reducing inflammation for sustainable acne control.Clindamycin and Other Topical Antibiotics
Topical antibiotics like clindamycin are often prescribed for acne, but they:
Disrupting the skin microbiome leads to antibiotic resistance and bacterial imbalances.
Only provide temporary improvement, with acne often returning once the antibiotic is discontinued.
It can cause rebound breakouts and increased skin sensitivity.
Instead of relying on topical antibiotics, I prefer to use natural antimicrobial ingredients like sulfur, zinc, and AHA/BHA's that help reduce acne-causing bacteria without disrupting the microbiome.
A Biorhythm-Based Approach to Skincare
Your skin isn’t static—it follows natural cycles throughout the day and night. Understanding these biorhythms allows me to create treatment plans that work with the skin, rather than against it.
Daytime: Protection Mode
During the day, your skin is in defense mode, protecting itself from environmental stressors. This is the time to focus on:
Antioxidants (Vitamin C, Green Tea, Resveratrol) to neutralize free radicals
SPF to prevent sun damage and hyperpigmentation
Lightweight hydration to maintain a balanced moisture barrier
Nighttime: Repair & Regeneration Mode
At night, your skin enters repair mode, working hard to heal damage and boost collagen production. This is the best time for:
PDRN (Polydeoxyribonucleotide) to accelerate tissue repair and skin renewal
Retinaldehyde and Peptides to stimulate collagen without excessive irritation
Barrier-strengthening ingredients like ceramides and exosomes to enhance overnight healing
By aligning treatments with these natural cycles, we can achieve better, longer-lasting results without overloading or stressing the skin.
How My BIO24h Biorhythm Therapy Treatments Support Skin Health
At Skin Alchemy, I integrate biorhythm-based treatments that align with the skin’s natural renewal process. My BIO24h Biorhythm Therapy facials are designed to work with your body’s cycles, helping restore balance and train the skin to function optimally.
Each treatment is customized based on what your skin needs:
Barrier Balance: Calming, reparative treatments for sensitive or compromised skin
Hormone Immunity: Skin-strengthening protocol utilizing a needling system to support cellular repair and balance while regenerative and resurfacing.
Skin Sleep Moisture: A resurfacing facial utilizing chemical peels to address problematic skin.
Anti-Stress Trouble: Using a chemical peel and needling system for intense resurfacing and regeneration.
By following the skin's natural rhythms, we achieve results that last longer, feel better, and don’t create dependency on aggressive treatments.
Why I Choose Medipair, Pharmesthetics, Oxygenceuticals, Lira Clinical, and Face Reality
I have carefully selected Medipair (K-Beauty), Pharmesthetics (K-Beauty), Oxygenceuticals (K-Beauty), Lira Clinical, and Face Reality as my main professional skincare brands because they align with my barrier-first, results-driven approach. These brands work synergistically to create consistent, effective, and safe results without the risks associated with harsh, dependency-forming ingredients.
Why These Brands Stand Out
✔ Barrier-Supportive Formulations – Strengthen, protect, and repair the skin while delivering active ingredients.
✔ Brightening Without Hydroquinone – Use botanical lighteners like arbutin, hexylresorcinol, and vitamin C for safe pigment correction.
✔ Microbiome-Friendly Acne Solutions – Incorporate effective exfoliants and anti-inflammatory ingredients.
✔ Advanced Technology – Include peptides, exosomes, growth factors, and PDRN to enhance skin renewal and longevity.
✔ Biorhythm-Based Skincare – Work with the skin’s natural cycles to support long-term health rather than force quick results.
By exclusively using these brands, I ensure that every treatment and homecare plan is backed by science, safety, and long-term effectiveness.
The Power of Patience in Skincare
The biggest challenge with a long-term approach is that it requires patience. Many people are tempted by quick results, but true skin transformation takes time.
Something to keep in mind:
"Would you rather have temporary improvement that fades the moment you stop using a product, or would you prefer steady, lasting results that improve your skin year after year?"
By choosing treatments and products that support the skin’s natural cycles, we can achieve sustainable, healthy, and genuinely radiant skin—without the rollercoaster of dependency and rebound effects.
If you’re ready to take a smarter, biorhythm-based approach to skincare, I’d love to help guide you on your journey!
XOXO, The Skin Alchemist ✨
Shawnlin Kinney | Licensed Esthetician
Owner & Solo Esthetician
Skin Alchemy HI
(808)272-9600
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